The poster of this YouTube clip calls it a tsunami, but that’s not the case. However, it’s quite a ride — possibly a 50-foot wave that rolled up at Jaws, a beach in Hawaii.
According to Wikipedia, the hazards of big-wave surfing include:
In a big wave wipeout, a breaking wave can push surfers down 20 to 50 feet below the surface. Once they stop spinning around, they have to quickly regain their equilibrium and figure out which way is up. They may have less than 20 seconds to get to the surface for a breath of air before the next wave hits them. Additionally, the water pressure at a depth of 20-50 feet can be strong enough to rupture one’s eardrums. Strong currents and water action at those depths can also slam a surfer into a reef or even the floor, which can result in severe injuries or even death.
One of the greatest dangers is the risk of being held down by two or more consecutive waves without the chance to reach the surface for air. Surviving a triple hold-down is extremely difficult.
So, you root for this guy to stay on his board. Click the video to see if he does.